TLDR
- MTG cube proxies are easiest when they are consistent: same size, same finish, same sleeves, no weird “marked card” giveaways.
- Full cube printing is for people who want a cube that shuffles clean, reads clean, and survives other humans handling it.
- The fastest path: export your cube list (Cube Cobra or plaintext), pick your count (360, 450, 540, 720), choose your options, and print the whole thing in one go.
- Proxies are for casual play and testing, not for sanctioned events. If it’s a tournament, the rules are different.
Table of contents
- Why cube proxies are their own special problem
- What “full cube printing” means on Let’s Proxy
- Pick your cube size in 30 seconds
- The cube print readiness checklist
- Double-faced cards, tokens, and other “oops” moments
- Sleeves and marked-card paranoia (the healthy kind)
- DIY vs MPC vs full-service printing: real tradeoffs
- Rule 0 scripts for cube night
- FAQs
Why cube proxies are their own special problem
Proxying a deck is easy. You print 100 cards, sleeve them, and you are done.
A cube is different. A cube is a shared draft environment that gets:
- shuffled constantly
- sorted constantly
- handled by people who just ate chips
- dropped on the floor at least once a year (ask me how I know)
So the goal with MTG cube proxies is not “pretty.” The goal is boring consistency.
Boring is good. Boring is what keeps your cube from turning into a marked-card detective novel.
If one subset of your proxies is glossier, thicker, slightly taller, or cut a hair differently, your drafters can start feeling it in the shuffle. Even if nobody is trying to cheat, it still changes the experience.
What “full cube printing” means on Let’s Proxy
When you order a full cube print, you’re paying for three things that DIY cube proxying loves to quietly sabotage:
1) Consistent physical specs
Same size. Same thickness. Same finish. Same cut. Same corner rounding.
This is the difference between “draftable cube” and “stack of vibes.”
2) A workflow that does not require you to become a part-time prepress operator
You should not need a printing degree to get a cube that looks clean in sleeves.
If you have ever printed an entire sheet with “fit to page” enabled, welcome. You are among friends. The fix is always the same: print at 100%.
3) A cube that shows up ready to sleeve and draft
A full cube order is meant to land in your hands like: open box, sleeve cards, draft tonight.
If you want the short path, start here: How to Order
Pick your cube size in 30 seconds
Here’s a simple decision framework. It is not the only way. It is the way that prevents you from spending three weeks debating 30 cards and then still ending up at 540.
360 cards
- Best when you usually draft with 8 players
- Lowest variance, highest consistency
- Great for high synergy environments
450 cards
- Adds variety without feeling like a completely different cube every draft
- Good if you often draft with 8, but want more room for archetype support
540 cards
- Popular “I want variety” size
- Works well if you draft with 8 to 10 and like broader archetypes
720 cards
- Big cube energy
- Great if you want maximum variety or support larger pods
- More variance, more maintenance, more sorting, more “where did that card go”
If you’re new and you draft with 8 often, start at 360. If you want variety, go 450 or 540. If you want two very different drafts from the same box, 720 is the chaos option.
The cube print readiness checklist
This is the checklist that prevents 80% of cube proxy disasters. Print it. Tape it to your monitor. Do not trust your brain at 1:00 a.m. when you are “just finishing the last few cards.”
List and counts
- Total count matches your target (360, 450, 540, 720)
- Duplicates are intentional (if you run multiples, make sure you actually want that)
- Basics are handled (include them, or keep a basic land station separate)
- Tokens are accounted for (either printed, or you already have token solutions)
Card faces
- Readable name line (especially if you use alt-art)
- Readable mana cost and type line
- Rules text legible at table distance
- Oracle accuracy matters for your group (most cube groups care more than they admit)
Backs
- One consistent back for the entire cube, or fully opaque sleeves if backs vary
- If you want to minimize awkwardness: clearly non-official backs or subtle proxy marking is a good move. The goal is play, not confusion.
Finish and feel
- Pick one finish and stick to it
- Avoid mixing glossy and matte inside the same cube unless you enjoy chaos
Sleeves
- Same sleeve model across the entire cube
- If you run double-faced cards, plan for fully opaque sleeves or an inner sleeve solution
Storage and organization
- Have a plan for dividers, color sorting, and token storage
- If you want the cube to last, treat storage like part of the product
Double-faced cards, tokens, and other “oops” moments
Cubing is where Magic’s “normal card assumptions” go to die.
Double-faced cards (DFCs)
You have three common options:
- Print both sides and use clear inner sleeves that still block backs with an opaque outer sleeve
- Use checklist cards (boring, but functional)
- Use placeholder fronts and keep the real DFCs behind the scenes for reference
If your cube includes a lot of DFCs, your sleeve plan matters more than your print plan.
Tokens
For cube, tokens are not optional flavor. They are gameplay pieces. If your cube has:
- lots of treasures
- lots of clues
- lots of role tokens
- lots of “create a thing” cards
…print tokens or at least prep a clean token kit. Nobody wants to draft a cube where every token is “this sideways basic land is a treasure, I guess.”
Weird frames, meld, stickers, and other modern inventions
If your cube includes cards that rely on special components, you have two goals:
- Make it playable without a rules lecture
- Make it draftable without extra friction
Sometimes that means printing reference cards. Sometimes it means trimming the card choices. Sometimes it means accepting that your cube is now a small board game.
Sleeves and marked-card paranoia (the healthy kind)
Marked cards are not just a tournament concern. They are a cube concern because your whole environment is shared.
What causes “marked” feel in cubes:
- slightly different card thickness
- slightly different cut sizes
- different finishes
- different sleeve opacity
- DFC backs showing through
- a subset of cards that curl differently
Your easiest win is: one sleeve type, one print spec, one consistent back strategy.
DIY vs MPC vs full-service printing: real tradeoffs
There are multiple legit ways to build MTG cube proxies. Here’s the honest comparison.
| Method | Cost | Time | Consistency | Best for | What you give up |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Paper print + basic land in sleeve | Low | Medium | Medium | Testing a list quickly | Feels “homemade,” harder to keep uniform |
| MPC (MakePlayingCards + MPC Autofill) | Medium | Medium | High | DIY folks who want pro-ish results | You do the setup and file wrangling |
| Local print shop | Varies | Medium | Varies | People with a great local shop | You may teach them the spec, results vary |
| Let’s Proxy full cube printing | Medium | Low | High | “I want this cube to draft clean” | Less tinkering in the process, you are committing to a spec |
None of these are “wrong.” The right choice depends on what you value:
- If you love tinkering, DIY can be fun.
- If you want a cube that feels cohesive fast, full cube printing is the cleanest lane.
- If you are trying to draft this weekend, the fastest path is the one with the fewest moving parts.
Rule 0 scripts for cube night
Most cube drama is avoidable with one sentence said at the beginning, like a normal adult.
The simple opener
“Quick heads up, this cube is fully proxied for draft night. Everything’s consistent and readable. Cool with everyone?”
If someone hesitates
“No worries. If you’d rather not, we can draft something else or I can find a different pod.”
If you’re bringing it to a store
“Hey, I’ve got a proxied cube for casual draft night. Nothing here is for sanctioned play. Are you okay with that in the space?”
Short. Neutral. Early. You are not asking permission to enjoy Magic. You are just preventing surprise feelings.
FAQs
Are MTG cube proxies allowed at my LGS?
For casual play, often yes, but it’s store-by-store and event-by-event. If it’s sanctioned, assume real cards are required. If it’s a casual cube night, ask the organizer.
Can you print a full 720-card cube?
Yes, full cube printing is built for complete cube counts, including 360, 450, 540, and 720.
Do my cube proxies need a Magic card back?
They need to be consistent. Many cube owners prefer a clearly non-official back or a subtle proxy mark. If you use varying backs, you need fully opaque sleeves.
What’s the best file format for a cube order?
A plain text list is usually the easiest starting point, especially if it’s exported from a cube site. If you are providing custom faces, print-ready files matter.
How do you handle double-faced cards in a cube?
Either print both sides and use an opaque sleeve plan, or use checklist/placeholder solutions. The main goal is preventing visible backs and maintaining shuffle consistency.