TLDR
- Custom altered MTG cards look cooler than stock frames, but still need to play cleanly (readable text, consistent sizing).
- If you want fast + consistent, use the LetsProxy card design tool. If you already have files, upload them and sanity-check the print basics.
- The “premium” look is mostly contrast + spacing + file prep (bleed, correct size, clean exports). Not vibes. Unfortunately.
- Want them to work better on SpellTable? Optimize for camera readability (big name line, high contrast, low glare).
You know that moment when you finally reveal your gorgeous altered commander… and your pod squints for 12 seconds trying to figure out if that’s “2U” or “2W”?
Yeah. That’s not “their fault.” That’s the background art doing its best impression of camouflage.
Let’s make custom altered MTG cards that look sick in sleeves and behave like real game pieces at the table.
What counts as a “custom altered” MTG card?
In practice, most players mean one of these:
- Alt-art: same card text, new artwork
- Frame swap: new border, showcase-style frame, retro frame, etc.
- Full-art extension: the art bleeds into the frame while keeping text readable
- Themed reskin: your deck has a unified vibe (all Phyrexian, all pixel art, all “my playgroup will judge me”)
This article is about the sweet spot: altered cards that still read like MTG cards.
The 3 rules of alters that feel “real” in sleeves
If you want a quick framework, here it is.
1) Readability beats beauty (by a little)
Your opponent should be able to read, quickly:
- Card name
- Mana cost
- Type line
- Rules text (at least the relevant parts)
- P/T or loyalty
Print-nerd translation: busy backgrounds murder small text. If you want that nebula behind the textbox, you can have it. You just can’t have it everywhere.
2) Consistency is what makes a deck feel “done”
One altered card that’s slightly off-size, darker, or glossier becomes “that card.” Not because anyone’s accusing anyone. Because humans have hands.
Aim for:
- Same export size every time
- Similar brightness and contrast across the deck
- Similar finish (or at least similar glare)
3) The card should be instantly playable
The best alters don’t force a conversation mid-game.
If your card needs a 30-second explanation, it’s not “custom.” It’s a side quest.
The LetsProxy way to make an altered card (pick your lane)
Here’s the simple decision tree.
If you want the fastest path: use the card designer
This is for “I want it to look like a real card layout, but with my art.”
Start here: Create a new card design
Why it works:
- You’re starting from a card-shaped, card-spaced layout
- You’re less likely to accidentally put text in the danger zone
- You can keep a consistent style across multiple cards
If you already have art/files: upload and keep it boring (in the good way)
If you’ve already built your alter in Photoshop, Illustrator, Card Conjurer-style tools, or a template, you can absolutely use that. The main goal is avoiding the classic print disasters.
Start here: Upload your card file
Quick reality check: most print problems come from scaling, bleed, and compression. Not from “the art is slightly off-center.” (Although yes, I have also printed things off-center. For science.)
If you want a cohesive “set” look: use the design team
This is the move when you want:
- A full deck that shares the same frame language
- A custom frame built around a theme
- A consistent treatment for legends, basics, tokens, and emblems
- Someone to fix the one thing you can’t fix (it’s usually the textbox readability)
What to send your designer so they can actually help fast:
- The card list (or at least the key cards)
- A vibe reference (1–3 example images)
- Frame preference (modern, retro, full-art, minimal, etc.)
- Any “must keep readable” parts (name line, mana cost, textbox)
- A note if it’s primarily for SpellTable or in-person
Designers can do miracles, but not if the brief is “make it cool.” That’s like telling a printer “just make the colors good.” We’ll try. We’ll also cry a little.
Print-prep basics that make alters look expensive
This is the part where your printer pretends it has never heard of paper. Here’s how you stay sane.
File checklist (the stuff that prevents heartbreak)
- Correct size: build/export at real MTG card dimensions (and don’t let anything auto-scale)
- Bleed: extend background art past the cut edge so tiny shifts don’t create white slivers
- Safe zone: keep name, mana cost, and rules text away from the edges
- Resolution: 300 DPI minimum at final size, higher if you’re using tiny text
- Export cleanly: avoid “small file size” presets that crush text into mush
- Do one test: print one page before you print 100 cards (printers punish confidence)
My personal hall-of-fame mistake: printing with “fit to page” turned on. The cards came out perfectly sized for a different game. Turn that off. Print at 100%.
Design checklist (the stuff that makes it feel premium)
- High contrast behind text (dark text on light, light on dark)
- Quiet textbox backgrounds (texture is fine, chaos is not)
- Consistent icon placement (set symbol, holo stamp area, etc.)
- Consistent typography (don’t mix five fonts unless your theme is “graphic design crimes”)
- Consistent border thickness across the deck
Making altered cards SpellTable-friendly
SpellTable is basically a referee with a webcam. It likes clean signals.
If your altered cards are mainly for SpellTable:
- Keep the name line clear and high contrast
- Don’t shrink text to make room for art. Make room for text by simplifying the art behind it.
- Avoid heavy glare: glossy sleeves + overhead lights can turn your textbox into a mirror
- Use consistent framing: if every card uses the same layout style, humans recognize them faster too
Pro tip: if you want your deck to “read” on camera, treat your card like a YouTube thumbnail. Big, clear, high-contrast signals. No tiny drama.
Good, better, best: how fancy should your alters be?
Here’s the honest tradeoff table.
| Level | What you do | Best for | What you give up |
|---|---|---|---|
| Good | Swap art, keep the normal layout | Fast playtesting, quick upgrades | Less “wow,” less uniqueness |
| Better | Alt-art + consistent frame style + contrast tuning | Commander decks, theme nights | More time tweaking readability |
| Best | Full cohesive deck treatment (frames, tokens, basics) | Cubes, signature decks, gifts | More iteration, more pickiness |
If you’re doing 5–15 cards: Better is usually the sweet spot.
If you’re doing 360–720 cards (cube people): consistency matters more than novelty.
Rule 0 scripts you can actually use
These are short on purpose. Nobody wants a TED Talk before game one.
Commander night (friends / pod):
“I’m running some custom altered proxies. They’re readable and consistent in sleeves. Everyone cool with that?”
LGS casual night:
“Quick check, are altered proxies okay for tonight’s games if they’re easy to read?”
If the answer is no, it’s not a moral judgment. It’s just table rules. Swap decks and keep it moving.
Common altered-card failures (and the fix)
“It looked fine on my screen”
Fix: bump contrast and simplify behind text. Screens are forgiving. Print is not.
“White slivers on the edge”
Fix: add bleed. Background art should extend past the cut edge.
“Text looks fuzzy”
Fix: export at correct size, don’t compress aggressively, and avoid resizing after export.
“My deck feels ‘off’ when shuffling”
Fix: ensure consistent sizing and finish across the whole batch.
FAQs
Are custom altered MTG cards allowed in tournaments?
Sanctioned tournaments generally require original cards. Alters and proxies are typically for casual play, testing, and unsanctioned events. (If you’re unsure, ask the organizer before you show up with a spicy custom deck.)
What’s the easiest altered card style for beginners?
Alt-art with a standard frame. Keep the original layout, swap the art, and focus on readability.
What resolution do I need for altered cards?
300 DPI at final size is a solid baseline. If you’re using tiny text or detailed linework, higher can help.
Why do my blacks look washed out?
Usually it’s a mix of file settings, paper, and printer behavior. If your shadows look gray, you probably need more contrast in the art and a cleaner export.
How do I make a whole deck look cohesive?
Pick one frame style, one font treatment, and one approach to textbox backgrounds. Consistency does more work than you think.